On a road trip several years ago, I crossed over a bridge on an expansive lake, and saw a Santee Cooper Country SC billboard featuring a massive striped bass the size of an RV. The text on that particular sign gave me a chuckle. It read “Not quite actual size.” Now, if you’ve driven this stretch of I-95 southeast of Columbia, SC you probably know exactly what I’m talking about.
Obviously, from the message on that sign, one could assume there’s at least some good fishing around these parts. But what else is there?
In May of this year, I hopped in the truck and started driving towards Santee Cooper Country SC for my first actual visit to find out.
And after spending one week exploring the area, visiting all the places that the truly hospitable locals hold so dear, experiencing the nature, and learning some of the history, I came away with two resounding conclusions. One, the boating and fishing is every bit as good as that iconic billboard suggests. And two, there’s so much more to this supremely underrated region of the Carolinas.
Let’s start with Lake Marion!
After all, that was our home base for this wonderful trip. It may sound surprising, but this is the largest lake in South Carolina. It is manmade, stretching across 90,000 acres and outlined by a whopping 511 miles of shoreline.
The lake’s head waters extend nearly to Sparkleberry Swamp, a forested wetland formed by the Wateree and Congaree Rivers that teems with wildlife. Its southern tip flows into Lake Moultrie before streaming on to the Cooper River. The most telling indicator of Lake Marion’s remarkable square footage might be the fact that it touches five counties; Clarendon, Calhoun, Berkeley, Orangeburg, and Sumter. But its size isn’t the only thing of note. It is stunningly beautiful and a wildlife, boating, and fishing enthusiast’s dream.
Where To Stay Near Lake Marion
Palmetto Shores
We stayed in a cozy lakefront cabin at Palmetto Shores RV Resort in the small town of Summerton, SC. The cabin was spacious and comfy with everything you’d need, plus great sunset views! This beautiful piece of property is perfect for families and especially for RVers. There’s a pool, lazy river, and splash pool on the property, as well as private boat ramps, boat slips, and areas to host events. The best part: it’s close to everything in Santee Cooper Country SC and located directly on the lake.
WHAT TO DO NEAR LAKE MARION
Santee State Park
Santee State Park was the first place we visited for several reasons. We wanted to see the popular pier cabins. There are 20 overwater cabins to rent—similar to something you could find in Bora Bora, sans the turquoise water of course—close to cypress trees and all the nature and wildlife the park has to offer. There’s also a web of hiking trails, a boat ramp for your boat, kayak, or paddle board, and camping options too. You can even drive offroad in the park to several lakeside spots for beautiful views and some solitude.
Fishing and Boating Tours
Our next adventure was with Captain Jim at Let’s Go Charter Services, who seemingly knows Lake Marion better than most anyone. Want to fish for world-class catfish or the largest shell cracker bream you’ve ever seen? Or maybe you’re simply hoping to take a scenic wildlife tour through Cypress trees to Jack’s Creek to see turtles, herons, ospreys, and maybe even alligators. We were lucky enough to do both, plus even escort a swimming deer to shore. It was such a memorable day.
The locale reminded me of being in an exotic place like the Everglades. From one nature lover to another, if you haven’t been, add it to your bucketlist because it’s truly memorable.
Golfing In The Lake Marion Area
This area is also home to an impressive number of golf courses, including the Santee Cooper Country Club, its sister business Lake Marion Golf Course, the 18-hole Players Course at Wyboo, and the Santee National Golf Course.
Fort Watson and the Santee Indian Mound
This historic archaeological site is significant for two very interesting reasons. It was a spiritual mound for the Santee tribe, likely constructed 500 to 750 years ago. It was also a well known site of Revolutionary War significance. The British took control of this high ground for an advantageous view of the Santee River. The Swamp Fox himself, Francis Marion, and his men built an even taller tower disguised in the woods behind the mound to give them the high ground and were able to retake this area. This strategy was studied and implemented in several other sieges. To see where this happened was pretty darn cool, and the views from atop the mound were 180-degrees and stunning!
Carolina Bays
Also sometimes referred to as Pocosins, these geographical mysteries are scattered throughout Santee Cooper Country SC and are a really unique sight because their origins are unknown: some think they were formed by wind, others by ice splatter or even meteors. No matter, these elliptical wetlands are very biodiverse and a rare natural phenomenon that’s just interesting to see. Then, you can talk about how you think they were created.
WHERE TO EAT NEAR LAKE MARION
The Lake House
What can I say about this place to actually do it justice? As mentioned before, we stayed at Palmetto Shores, and it just so happens that The Lake House is right next door. So, to say we frequented this restaurant on our trip is an understatement.
In fact, the only other restaurant we ate at in the Lake Marion area was Captain’s Quarter Seafood And Steak which had a classic vibe and good food, too. The Lake House was just too convenient, had too idyllic of a view, and felt so authentic to the area (especially the decor). The food was tasty, and the staff were just so nice.
Order the gator tail, the prime rib, the flounder and any of their alfredos. And don’t skip dessert. Both the Kahlua Expresso cake and the carrot cake are legendary. Most importantly, we enjoyed the people we met there (special shout out to Melanie, thank you for taking good care of us!)
WHAT TO DO NEAR LAKE MOULTRIE
Lake Moultrie is just south of Lake Marion and connected to it by a seven mile diversion canal. This lake is known for its fishing, and is home to the state’s record 136 lb blue catfish. There are classic fish camps, amazing wildlife viewing, and so much scenic nature. Plus it’s home to maybe the most interesting way to get to Charleston by water: the Lake Moultrie Pinopolis Lock. There’s also a lot of history in the area, including the burial site of Francis Marion and some very picturesque destinations within a 30 minutes drive of its shores.
The Diverson Canal and Pinopolis Locks
For the adventurous boater and explorer, this is one of the coolest trips one could do! From Lake Marion, boaters head through the seven mile diversion canal then cross Lake Moultrie and enter the Pinopolis Lock. Here, with the lock’s help, you and your boat will descend 75 feet in roughly half an hour into the Cooper River where you can make your way all the way to the Holy City!
Cypress Gardens
The Cypress Gardens in Moncks Corner, just thirty minutes southeast of Lake Moultrie is one of the most scenic and Instagrammable locations in the Carolinas. That’s why popular movies like The Notebook and The Patriot were filmed here. Beyond the self-guided swamp paddle adventure (that is a must), there’s also a walking path around the property, a Swamparium where you can learn about reptiles and fish, a Butterfly House, and a huge playground for the kids.
Mepkin Abbey
This Trappist Monastery just a half hour south of Lake Moultrie is nestled on the shores of the Cooper River. Its beautifully sculpted grounds, hundreds of years old live oaks, and impressive views aren’t the only wonderful things about this piece of property. This place is just so peaceful. There were so many nooks to sit and unwind. I chose a bench by the shores of the river under Spanish Moss.
Only a handful of other visitors were around. I could just sit and think, read a book, and simply be. Without a doubt, this is the quietest place I can recall visiting in the Carolinas.
WHERE TO EAT NEAR LAKE MOULTRIE
Black’s Camp
This is a true fish camp! There are accommodations on the property — hotel and campground — and some of the best fishing guides in the state work out of Black’s Camp. It is waterfront with a boat ramp and marina, and is one of the premier destinations for fishermen in the area. But we were there for the restaurant, and I’m sure glad we stopped in. The fried pickles and signature cheeseburger were delicious and the flounder fish dinner was a standout.
What makes it such a cool place though was its rustic decor. To me, it didn’t look like it had changed much since 1951 when it opened. If you think of the term “fish camp” in your head, Black’s is what appears. It is the quintessential sporting camp.
After we finished dining, we sat on the dock for almost an hour and photographed nearby wildlife. We saw countless osprey, several hawks, and one bald eagle soaring high above. All the while fishermen would arrive at the dock with their haul. It perfectly summed up “Santee Cooper Country” for me.
WHAT TO DO NEAR SUMTER, SC
Sumter is a charming town northeast of Lake Marion and directly east of Columbia. We visited for one very unique and beautiful reason: the Swan Lake Iris Gardens. But we also stayed to explore the quaint downtown (which has some truly beautiful buildings), enjoy some delicious food and drink, and see the Opera House.
Swan Lake Iris Gardens
When I visited the gardens, I was amazed by the sheer beauty they offered. Gifted to the Sumter community by the Bland and Heath families, these gardens stretch over 150 acres and boast hundreds of varieties of irises, as well as camelias, daylilies, azaleas and more. Now to its namesake: the swans. I didn’t even realize black swans existed, but they do. They are majestic, and you can find them here in numbers. There’s also geese, wood ducks, herons, anhingas, egrets, and more. Only thing I ask is that if you visit, please be respectful to the wildlife here.
The gardens also feature a cypress swamp and boardwalk, a Braille Garden Trail that enables the sight-impaired to enjoy the property, and a butterfly garden. It is so impressive that the entire time I was there I kept thinking to myself about how I wished Charlotte had something like this. It’s very special and worth driving for.
WHERE TO EAT NEAR SUMTER, SC
For a small town, Sumter had some delicious spots. Our favorite was Hamptons right downtown. The outdoor space at Hamptons is easily the best outdoor space at any restaurant I’ve seen this year, which came as a little bit of a shock to me. There’s a giant bar and covered area, a stage, and a massive greenery wall. If you ever get to go, the meatballs and pizza were phenomenal.
Across the street there’s Side Bar, and just a couple blocks down Brubaker’s Cafe & Bakery. I enjoyed the experience at both. Plus, Brubaker’s also had some really cool antiques. Sumter Original Brewery was a brief but nice stop. It’s always good to have a local brewery around for some unique craft beers.
An Indelible Impression
Santee Cooper Country SC has a lot to offer from unique nature to wildlife, beautiful lakes and quaint downtowns, but what I really liked was its character and authenticity. This is a place that is proud of what it is, that has an identity rooted in its unique surroundings. It’s not trying to be something else and that is very, very cool.
Frankly, I cannot wait to get back down there, go fishin’ with Captain Jim, see some osprey and eagles and some cypress trees, eat some mind blowing carrot cake, photograph some swans, and chill out by the river at Mepkin Abbey. If you told me a year ago that a trip to Santee Cooper Country SC would sound like the absolute perfect getaway, I would’ve snickered. Well, you can’t know what you don’t know. But now that I know, I just booked a cabin at Palmetto Shores. It’s right across from that big striped bass on I-95. Let me know if you want to come with!
