I’ve been visiting Old Fort, North Carolina for two decades and can still remember when the town was little more than industrial buildings and a Subway. But then the area started to get more attention. Maybe people began to realize just how beautiful this place is and how incredible the nature that surrounds it truly is. Whatever the reason, before Hurricane Helene hit, Old Fort, North Carolina in McDowell County was on the rise—not loudly or quickly, but steadily. You could feel it on a Saturday morning walk down Catawba Ave. or Main Street. Alongside the old post office and Piggly Wiggly, new signs began to pop up: a brewery, a coffee shop, a couple of lunch spots. The energy was shifting.
I always visited the area for the outdoor access. The trout streams around here were special to me, particularly Newberry Creek, a wonderful stream chock full of wild rainbows and native specks (Southern Appalachian Brook Trout). I would fish it often and it was truly like paradise to me: it felt like I had a lush, green, quiet rain forest all to myself.
The trail system here was also incredible. There’s Kitsuma Peak for hiking or biking, and there’s the iconic waterfalls in the area. In 2024, Catawba Falls reopened after closing for nearly two years of upgrades. With the construction of a 580-step staircase that ascended the rock face to Upper Catawba Falls, the trail was a marvel.
It seemed like Old Fort was becoming one of the next great mountain towns, just 25 minutes from Asheville but miles away, if you know what I mean.
Then, the storm came.
When Hurricane Helene hit, it swept through a wide swath of the Southern Appalachians, from Upstate South Carolina to Lake Lure, up to Banner Elk, and over into Northeastern Tennessee. It was a storm with a wide reach and a devastating touch. Homes were destroyed. Lives were lost. And towns like Old Fort were left underwater, literally and emotionally. The Catawba River overflowed and swallowed downtown. Businesses like Whaley Farm Brewery and Hillman Beer were flooded. Destination McDowell, the area’s tourism board, took on water. Part of the Mountain Gateway Museum with state archives was washed off its foundation. The creeks we had fished—Newberry Creek, Curtis Creek, and Mill Creek—spilled over, turning roads into rivers and landslides. Railroad tracks were destroyed. The momentum of progress came to a grinding halt.
Everything stopped for a moment on September 27. But what happened next was what reminded us why we love this place so much. Old Fort, like so many Appalachian towns, carries a dual spirit—a fierce independence and a deep sense of community. Yes, they needed help, and yes, the damage was heartbreaking. But the people here didn’t waste time. They got busy rebuilding.
Like thousands of other people across our region, we tried to do our part in the recovery. We spent weeks helping however we could. At first, we made regular supply runs to nearby Marion, where the Foothills Food Hub became a centralized drop-off and staging area. That’s where FEMA and the Army were set up too, helping coordinate relief for this part of the state. It was surprisingly organized, efficient, and critical in those early days.
Then, as soon as it was safe enough to head back into Old Fort, North Carolina we transitioned our efforts and started delivering directly into town. That’s when Davis Country Store and Cafe became our go-to hub. Every visit brought signs of progress—cleaned-up streets, reopened shops, and a renewed sense of momentum.
Appalachian mountain folks carry a burden. On the news, you heard how they needed government help, and of course that was true. But there’s a kind of stubborn resilience in this region. A self-reliance that’s baked into the soil. The people of Old Fort got to work helping each other. Within several months, the downtown was alive.
The reopening of Hillman Beer – Old Fort was a huge moment, a sign of life, of normalcy returning. And then the popular Catawba Falls reopened. It was another major win, not just because it meant trails were clear, but because we all found out that the engineering feat to Upper Catawba Falls—the staircase they had finished just six months prior to the storm —had survived. That project represented progress, pride, and grit. And it held.
Your Old Fort, North Carolina Itinerary
So here’s our invitation: come visit. Come see the streams, the trails, the food, the people. Come support a town that refused to fold. Here’s how to spend a perfect overnight in Old Fort.
Start your morning with something sweet. Gogo’s Cinnamon Rolls sits right downtown in a white brick building with old-school charm. There’s a lot of different flavors, but I can personally recommend the original, peanut butter, and cookies & cream cinnamon rolls. If you don’t feel like sitting down, there’s a drive-thru too! Now, if you need coffee to go with your roll, just down the street there’s Seeker Coffee, a modern spot with mid-century seating and an incredible mocha that’s basically espresso-infused hot chocolate. They use local Rowan Coffee and it is so good.
From there, hit the trails. Catawba Falls is the marquee hike. Located in Pisgah National Forest, the trail is a 3-mile round trip that takes you by two epic waterfalls. There’s water crossings, remnants of historic buildings, crystal clear swimming holes, and even a dam to see along the way. It’s a trail that’s both easy and difficult. Yeah, that doesn’t make any sense right? Well, let me explain. To get to the base of Catawba Falls is a fairly short, casual walk on a wide trail. After 20 minutes or so hikers arrive at the base of the cascade. Here, you’ll take in the beauty of the tiered waterfall. It’s very picturesque and made up of so many details and smaller cascades. This is where you encounter the new upgrades—a massive metal and wood staircase rising hundreds of feet—built for access to the astoundingly beautiful Upper Catawba Falls. There are 500-and-eighty-some-odd steps worth climbing, but take your time, enjoy the views and perspectives on the way up, and then stick around for awhile at the upper falls to make the adventure truly worth it.
Another one you don’t want to miss in this area is Tom’s Creek Falls, which is an easy walk to a pretty epic waterfall in its own right.
Now, this area’s also known for its mountain biking and trail network. It has earned an epic reputation with riders from all over. If you’re looking for something different, the Kitsuma Peak trail offers challenging terrain and world-class views.
By now, you’ll be hungry. Black Beary’s is a classic diner with swivel stools and serious hot dogs. Or, grab a sub or slice from 27 Main. And there’s always the reuben or the croissant burger at Davis Country Store & Cafe. While you’re there be sure to check out all the local goods on sale.
If you’re into paddling, stop by Waterways Kayaks for gear and advice. And while the Old Fort Railroad Museum is still temporarily closed, the building and caboose out front make for a quick, informative stop. You can learn about the area’s history at the cute Mountain Gateway Museum, and then right next door is the brand new NANU Gallery, led by artist and curator Katie McWeeney, that features thoughtfully curated exhibitions on a monthly rotation. Art enthusiasts should also check out the Volunteer-run Arrowhead Gallery & Studios, which is just across the street.
In the afternoon, grab your rod. Curtis Creek has changed since the storm—its channels shifted, its pools remade—but that’s the magic of rivers. They evolve. They survive. And there’s still some big trout. If you aren’t into fishing but like a serene walk in the wood, the Gateway Trails trailhead along Curtis Creek is a wonderful option. There are still scars—downed trees, exposed rock—but the beauty is returning, one green leaf at a time.
After your adventure, it’s time for beer. Hillman Beer – Old Fort has reclaimed its space downtown, and the patio beside the river is the perfect place to raise a pint of Old Fort Lager. Their burger is fantastic, and yes, you should order the reuben egg rolls. Just trust us. Right across the stream, Whaley Farm Brewery is back in business, specializing in European-style lagers and British cask ales. They reopened in time for the Trails & Trains Festival and haven’t looked back.
Now if you prefer grapes over hops, the reopened Euda Wine is just down the road. This place was rooted in the spirit of eudaimonia—a good life, well lived. The owners Michael and Abi McGeary’s approach is simple: make great wine, share it generously, and create a welcoming space where community and conversation flow as easily as the pours. Salud!
Where to Stay When Visiting Old Fort, North Carolina
Let me give you several recommendations—starting with a gem that might just be one of my all-time favorite Airbnbs. Tucked about five to ten minutes from downtown Old Fort, just off a short gravel road, you’ll find the Little Mountain A-Frame…and it’s damn near perfect.
From the moment you pull up, it sets the tone: a hammock and fire pit in the front yard, with inviting lounge furniture on both the lower and upper porches. Step inside and it only gets better. The design is thoughtful, cohesive, and full of character. Think mountain boho done right. The kitchen’s mustard-toned cabinets somehow work perfectly, paired with wood countertops, vintage-inspired hardware, and warm lighting. The living area features a leather sofa, eclectic chairs, playful pillows, and gallery walls that add just the right amount of funk.
The ceilings soar, making the space feel open and airy. Off the main room, there’s a spiral staircase and a cozy lounge nook complete with a hanging rattan chair, a record player with a curated vinyl collection, and more houseplants than you can count.
The downstairs bathroom is a stunner—deep green tile, brass accents, and a shower you won’t want to get out of. Upstairs, the lofted bedroom brings in gorgeous natural light through oversized windows. The bed was incredibly comfy (memory foam pillows for the win), and there’s a small workspace, a charming dressing area, and more bathroom amenities featuring a skylight-lit shower.
But the real showstopper? The back porch. It’s massive, with a hot tub, lounge seating, and a view of the lush forest canopy that makes you feel totally off the grid. There’s even a giant tree growing through the deck, which I think makes it officially part treehouse…right?
This place is cozy, creative, and just absolutely nailed the vibe. It’s hands-down in my top three Airbnbs I’ve ever stayed in, and that’s saying a lot.
Now for something totally different, and totally fun. It’s not in Old Fort, North Carolina proper, but just about fifteen minutes away in nearby Marion, right off I-40 East. It’s called the Tabletop Inn, and if you’re even slightly into board games, this place is going to be your dream stay.
Run by Mike and Grace—actual board game designers—the inn is a whimsical stay built around the joy of play. The property features a dedicated game room stocked with a jaw-dropping library of over 600 board games and card games. Whether you’re a strategy master or just in it for the vibes, there’s something for everyone. It’s a creative, charming, one-of-a-kind experience that’s perfect for couples, families, or anyone looking for a stay that’s a little outside the box. Had to include it because it’s just too cool not to mention.
Then, along Newberry Creek sits Indigo Retreat, a tranquil haven tucked into the trees. It’s part yoga retreat, part creative sanctuary — the kind of place where the creek itself feels like it’s meditating. This area was hit hard by the hurricane, but they’ve reopened with open arms, and the calm they’ve cultivated there is even more meaningful now.
Back to the mountains…
From a town on the rise to one abruptly tested by nature, and now writing the next chapter of its story—Old Fort is a place that’s earned its momentum. Before the hurricane, you could feel something stirring: new businesses moving in, outdoor projects taking shape, and a growing sense of pride among locals who saw what this town could become. The storm didn’t erase that—it only paused it. And in the months since, it’s been inspiring to watch the community rally, rebuild, and reopen its doors.
What makes Old Fort special isn’t just its location—though the surrounding nature is breathtaking—or even its downtown, which carries that rare mix of grit and charm. It’s the people. The ones who stayed. The ones who showed up with supplies. The ones rebuilding not just homes and trails, but the spirit of a place that feels both rooted and ready. Like our friend Omi, who turns storm debris from Mill Creek into delicate glass and art resin birds for her Bluebirds of Hope collection. Or Jonathan at Waterways, who shared his favorite fishing honey holes with us. And B at Seeker Coffee, who stayed open late just to teach us how to steam and froth our own milk. Then there’s Joel at Gogo’s Cinnamon Rolls who was incredibly kind to us. And Shealy at Little Mountain A-frame, who welcomed us with open arms.
There’s a quiet magic here, whether you’re sipping a beer at Whaley or Hillman with a view of the river, hiking out to a waterfall, or chatting with a shop owner who knows your name by the second visit. It’s the kind of place you can’t help but root for.
So if you’re looking for a destination that blends outdoor adventure, local flavor, and a story still being written, put Old Fort, North Carolina on your list. Come support the businesses. Take in the beauty. And be part of what’s next. Here’s to Western North Carolina, and to seeing you out there.
